🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.